|The Naxi of Yunnan in 1917|
of Yunnan in 1917, as seen by Roy Chapman Andrews in Camps and Trails
in China (1)
is a fur market of considerable importance for the Tibetans bring down
vast quantities of skins for sale and trade. Lambs, goats, foxes, cats,
civets, pandas, and flying squirrels hang in the shops and there are dozens
of fur dressers who do really excellent tanning.
is a most interesting place especially on market day, for its inhabitants
represent many different tribes with but comparatively few Chinese. By
far the greatest percentage of natives are the Mosos(3) who are semi-Tibetan
in their life and customs. They were originally an independent race who
ruled a considerable part of northern Yün-nan, and Li-chiang was
their ancient capital. To the effeminate and "highly civilized"
Chinese they are "barbarians," but we found them to be simple,
honest and wholly delightful people. Many of those whom we met later had
never seen a white woman, and yet their inherent decency was in the greatest
contrast to that of the Chinese who consider themselves so immeasurably
have large herds of sheep and cattle, and this is the one place in the
Orient except in large cities along the coast, where we could obtain fresh
milk and butter. As with the Tibetans, buttered tea and tsamba (parched
oatmeal) are the great essentials, but they also grow quantities of delicious
vegetables and fruit. Buttered tea is prepared by churning fresh butter
into hot tea until the two have become well mixed. It is then thickened
with finely ground tsamba until a ball is formed which is eaten with the
fingers. The combination is distinctly good when the ingredients are fresh,
but if the butter happens to be rancid the less said of it the better.
of this region are largely agriculturists and raise great quantities of
squash, turnips, carrots, cabbage, potatoes, onions, corn, peas, beans,
oranges, pears, persimmons and nuts. While traveling we filled our saddle
pockets with pears and English walnuts or chestnuts and could replenish
our stock at almost any village along the road.
was absurdly cheap. Eggs were usually about eight cents (Mexican) a dozen,
and we could always purchase a chicken for an empty tin can, or two for
a bottle. In fact, the latter was the greatest desideratum and when offers
of money failed to induce a native to pose for the camera a bottle nearly
always would decide matters in our favor...
IN THE CLOUDS
four Moso hunters in the Snow Mountain village. They were picturesque
fellows, supposedly dressed in skins, but their garments were so ragged
and patched that it was difficult to determine the original material of
which they were made.
other hunters carried crossbows and poisoned arrows. They were remarkably
good shots and at a distance of one hundred feet could place an arrow
in a six-inch circle four times out of five. We found later that crossbows
are in common use throughout the more remote parts of Yün-nan and
were only another evidence that we had suddenly dropped back into the
Middle Ages and, with our high-power rifles and twentieth century equipment,
are able to obtain a good deal of game even with such primitive weapons
for they depend largely upon dogs which bring gorals and serows to bay
against a cliff and hold them until the men arrive. The dogs are a mongrel
breed which appears to be largely hound, and some are really excellent
hunters. White is the usual color but a few are mixed black and brown,
or fox red. Hotenfa, one of our Mosos, owned a good pack and we all came
to love its big red leader. This fine dog could be depended upon to dig
out game if there was any in the mountains, but his life with us was short
for he was killed by our first serow. Hotenfa was inconsolable and the
tears he shed were in sincere sorrow for the loss of a faithful friend.
family owns a dog
The dogs of the non-Chinese tribes were in fairly
good condition and there seemed to be comparatively little disease among
them. Our hunters treated their hounds kindly and fed them well, but the
animals themselves, although loyal to their masters, manifested but little
affection. In Korea dogs are eaten by the natives, but none of the tribes
with which we came in contact in Yün-nan used them for food.
Chapman Andrews and Yvette Borup Andrews.- Camps and Trails in China.
A Narrative of Exploration, Adventure, and Sport in Little-Known China.1918
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